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A small green sphere held between four hands

A small green sphere held between four hands

The Weight of a Shared Garden

The moss ball, a dense, damp sphere of emerald growth that smells of ancient forests and rain-soaked stone, bound tightly by coarse twine that leaves faint, red impressions on the skin.

A Conversation in the Quiet

"Do you think it will survive the trip back?" you asked, your voice barely rising above the wind rattling the windowpane. I looked at the small green sphere between us. "I suppose," I replied, "if we remember it needs mist more than sun." You smiled, a hesitant movement, and for once, the silence didn't need a plan.

The Slow Reclamation of Space

I sometimes think that the most honest part of our time at DWS Resort Hotel was not the curated activities, but the way the hotel's architecture—with its deliberate nods to a Japan that perhaps only exists in our collective longing—allowed us to practice the art of not rushing. In the Zhan ocean-view room, the horizon did not so much end as it blurred into the gray-blue of the November sea, the air tasting of salt and damp earth. I spent an hour watching a single white bird circle the coast, wondering if it felt the same pull toward the stillness that I did. We drifted toward the carbonated spring, where the water held the weight of the early winter chill and the scent of minerals clung to our skin like a second, warmer layer. The steam rose in slow, undecided spirals that mirrored the way we were still figuring out how to be in each other's space, the heat of the bath seeping into the places where we had grown rigid from the city's noise.

There was a moment of absurdity, a flicker of genuine joy, when we boarded the Kabi-bara Lake Boat, floating across the water in a vessel shaped like a giant rodent while the crisp air nipped at our ears. For a few minutes, the gravity of our shared worries seemed to dissolve into the ripples of the lake, replaced by the sight of capybaras lounging with an enviable, stoic indifference. I suspect that the moss we planted during the Leaf&Vibe experience was not just a souvenir, but a physical manifestation of how we were beginning to overlap, like moss slowly reclaiming a stone boundary, not by force, but by a persistent, quiet presence. We walked through the Japanese-style gardens in our yukatas, the fabric rustling against our ankles with a dry, papery sound, passing by the deer who watched us with dark, liquid eyes. I felt a sense of home that had nothing to do with a map and everything to do with the way your hand felt in mine—cold, but certain. Even the midnight ritual of sharing braised snacks in the lobby, the savory scent of soy and garlic mingling with the cool night air, felt like a secret pact. The distance from the bed to the bathroom at three in the morning felt like a journey through a dream, the carpet swallowing the sound of my footsteps, leaving only the rhythmic breath of the person beside me as the only clock that mattered at DWS Resort Hotel.

November light faded to bruised purple over Yilan.

  • Try the matcha experience to find a shared pace of breath.
  • Book the Zhan room to watch the sea blur into the autumn sky.

Nearby Food & Attractions

OX Yakiniku Steak Yilan Yuanshan

OX Yaxus Seared Steak (Yilan Yuanshan branch) sits at No. 202, Sec. 1, Yuanshan Road in Yuanshan Township, right beside the Yuanshan Farmers' Association. The interior is industrial-style, with blues and jazz setting a laid-back tone and walls lined with rows of motorcycle helmets. The menu centres on a self-service bar and steaks: the bar alone is just NT$109 for salad, hot dishes, toasted bread and ice cream, while steaks start from NT$309 and come with the free bar. Oden, Japanese steamed egg, spicy duck blood with stinky tofu, a chocolate fountain and corn chowder round things out, with no service charge—great for family and group dinners.

58 Eat

North Gate Green Bean Slush

Beimen Mung Bean Slush (Beimen Lvdousha Milk King) is a long-standing Yilan drink shop with more than 40 years of history. Hand-made to order, the mung bean slush milk, papaya milk and taro slush are the most popular, and the rich, smooth taste routinely draws long queues. Beyond the signature drinks, the bright, refreshed storefront also offers seasonal limited editions—an unmissable taste of Yilan for any traveller.

87 Eat

North Gate Garlic Pork Thick Soup

Beimen Garlic Meat Soup is a Beimen District, Yilan institution with more than 60 years of history, famed for its rich garlic-fragrant broth. The thickened soup features tender strips of pork shoulder, paired with garlic puree, shredded bamboo shoots and vegetables. Common choices include meat-soup noodles, rice cakes (gua zai) and rice noodles or rice, at about NT$55 a bowl—a coin-purse snack that often draws queues and a Yilan classic not to be missed.

109 Eat

City God Temple Noodle Shop

Chenghuang Temple Qie-Zi Noodle Shop at No. 27, Chenghuang Street, Yilan City, is a hidden breakfast spot locals love. Sign-less and plain-looking, it serves old-school dry and soup noodles, rice cakes and rice vermicelli, paired with handmade fish balls and small plates like pork liver, lung and cheek meat at friendly prices. Opening hours are roughly 6 to 11 (some say 12); queues are common, so driving in and parking along Zhongshan Road or near the temple is recommended. The dining area is simple and there's no air-con in summer—an authentic choice for travellers wanting a traditional Yilan breakfast.

54 Eat