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The way the sea turned green before the sun woke up

The way the sea turned green before the sun woke up

Five Unplanned Echoes of Yilan

The Capybara Lake Jump gamble. We had a bet that the most confident among us would be the first to scream, and as we zipped across the lake, the wind stripping away any pretense of bravery, the resulting sound was a high-pitched wail that I think will haunt our group chat for a decade. The air tasted of salt and adrenaline, a moment of pure, unadorned absurdity that made our friendship feel permanent through shared failure.

The Taisho Roman masquerade. We donned classic yukatas, but in the humid March air, the heavy cotton felt like a stifling embrace, making us look less like elegant travelers and more like confused extras from a silent film. We spent the afternoon roasting each other's clumsy gait, finding a strange liberation in looking ridiculous together and stripping away the professional masks we wear in the city.

The 3 a.m. expedition. In the vastness of the Zhan sea-view room at DWS Resort Hotel, the journey from the bed to the tiles felt like a deliberate trek through a space smelling faintly of welcome treats. I remember waking to a silence so heavy it felt physical, watching the distant lights of the coast flicker like dying embers against a bruised purple sky, wondering if this was where we finally stopped pretending.

The meditative mess of the moss ball. In the cool, dim light of the DIY studio, our fingers became stained green and smelled of rain-soaked stone as we coaxed moss into spheres that looked more like collapsed cakes. There was an unexpected peace in the focus, a rare pocket of time where the constant banter stopped and we only heard the soft, rhythmic squelch of the soil.

The erasure of the Furo. Sinking into the heat of the three-temperature bath, I felt the day's tension—the zip-line adrenaline and the walk through white Tung blossoms—simply dissolve into the steam. The water had a mineral thickness that seemed to press the noise out of my head, leaving only the scent of cedar and the rhythmic drip of water against the wooden walls.

The Sum of Small Fractures

I see this trip as black ink hitting a wet page. At DWS Resort Hotel, our jagged anxieties bled into a saturated wash of contentment, a slow separation of the essential from the superficial.

The scent of damp cedar on a discarded yukata.

  • Visit Yuanshan to see the white Tung blossoms in the mist.
  • Book the Zhan room to watch Turtle Island emerge from the haze.

Nearby Food & Attractions

OX Yakiniku Steak Yilan Yuanshan

OX Yaxus Seared Steak (Yilan Yuanshan branch) sits at No. 202, Sec. 1, Yuanshan Road in Yuanshan Township, right beside the Yuanshan Farmers' Association. The interior is industrial-style, with blues and jazz setting a laid-back tone and walls lined with rows of motorcycle helmets. The menu centres on a self-service bar and steaks: the bar alone is just NT$109 for salad, hot dishes, toasted bread and ice cream, while steaks start from NT$309 and come with the free bar. Oden, Japanese steamed egg, spicy duck blood with stinky tofu, a chocolate fountain and corn chowder round things out, with no service charge—great for family and group dinners.

58 Eat

North Gate Green Bean Slush

Beimen Mung Bean Slush (Beimen Lvdousha Milk King) is a long-standing Yilan drink shop with more than 40 years of history. Hand-made to order, the mung bean slush milk, papaya milk and taro slush are the most popular, and the rich, smooth taste routinely draws long queues. Beyond the signature drinks, the bright, refreshed storefront also offers seasonal limited editions—an unmissable taste of Yilan for any traveller.

87 Eat

North Gate Garlic Pork Thick Soup

Beimen Garlic Meat Soup is a Beimen District, Yilan institution with more than 60 years of history, famed for its rich garlic-fragrant broth. The thickened soup features tender strips of pork shoulder, paired with garlic puree, shredded bamboo shoots and vegetables. Common choices include meat-soup noodles, rice cakes (gua zai) and rice noodles or rice, at about NT$55 a bowl—a coin-purse snack that often draws queues and a Yilan classic not to be missed.

109 Eat

City God Temple Noodle Shop

Chenghuang Temple Qie-Zi Noodle Shop at No. 27, Chenghuang Street, Yilan City, is a hidden breakfast spot locals love. Sign-less and plain-looking, it serves old-school dry and soup noodles, rice cakes and rice vermicelli, paired with handmade fish balls and small plates like pork liver, lung and cheek meat at friendly prices. Opening hours are roughly 6 to 11 (some say 12); queues are common, so driving in and parking along Zhongshan Road or near the temple is recommended. The dining area is simple and there's no air-con in summer—an authentic choice for travellers wanting a traditional Yilan breakfast.

54 Eat