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The steam stayed long after we stopped talking

The steam stayed long after we stopped talking

The Rhythm of Arrival

We arrived as a fragmented current, suitcases clattering against polished marble. The lobby smelled of white tea and expensive stillness. Entering Cuncyue Hot Spring Hotel felt like stepping into a still pool we were about to disrupt with our collective laughter.

Four Things This Hotel Taught Us

The Paradox of the Double Soak. The brilliance of having both a sodium bicarbonate beauty bath and a jewel salt pool is that it eliminates the need for consensus. We drifted between the two, feeling the water hold us in a suspension that turned our bones into warm honey, a luxury that allowed us to coexist in a steaming, mineral-scented haze.

The Pace of the 23rd Floor. Dining at East 23 taught us that Kaiseki is not a meal but a slow-motion conversation. Each meticulously plated dish arrived like a comma in a sentence, forcing us to look at each other instead of our phones, mesmerized by the way the November light hit the sashimi and the scent of toasted sesame.

The Strategic Stillness of the 5th Floor. We discovered that the Club is less of a facility and more of a sanctuary where 'doing absolutely nothing' becomes a competitive sport. The quiet hum of the space acts as a filter, stripping away the city's urgency until all that is left is the sound of our own breathing and the soft clink of crystal.

The Delusion of the Executive Suite. There is a specific optimism that comes with a room this spacious, a feeling that you could finally organize your entire life within these walls. By the second morning, we realized we had simply distributed our personal chaos across a larger, more luxurious area of plush carpet.

The Unplanned Drift

The highlight was a detour to Beihou Temple, where November air felt like a damp cloth. We walked through cypress groves, watching mist cling to roofs like a slow tide. Returning to Cuncyue Hot Spring Hotel, the 270-degree night view of the Lanyang Plain shimmered like a fallen galaxy, a glittering reward for our unplanned drift.

A single crimson leaf floating in the hot spring.

  • Try the Kaiseki dinner on the 23rd floor for the autumn view.
  • Walk to Beihou Temple early to experience the November mist.

Nearby Food & Attractions

OX Yakiniku Steak Yilan Yuanshan

OX Yaxus Seared Steak (Yilan Yuanshan branch) sits at No. 202, Sec. 1, Yuanshan Road in Yuanshan Township, right beside the Yuanshan Farmers' Association. The interior is industrial-style, with blues and jazz setting a laid-back tone and walls lined with rows of motorcycle helmets. The menu centres on a self-service bar and steaks: the bar alone is just NT$109 for salad, hot dishes, toasted bread and ice cream, while steaks start from NT$309 and come with the free bar. Oden, Japanese steamed egg, spicy duck blood with stinky tofu, a chocolate fountain and corn chowder round things out, with no service charge—great for family and group dinners.

58 Eat

North Gate Green Bean Slush

Beimen Mung Bean Slush (Beimen Lvdousha Milk King) is a long-standing Yilan drink shop with more than 40 years of history. Hand-made to order, the mung bean slush milk, papaya milk and taro slush are the most popular, and the rich, smooth taste routinely draws long queues. Beyond the signature drinks, the bright, refreshed storefront also offers seasonal limited editions—an unmissable taste of Yilan for any traveller.

87 Eat

North Gate Garlic Pork Thick Soup

Beimen Garlic Meat Soup is a Beimen District, Yilan institution with more than 60 years of history, famed for its rich garlic-fragrant broth. The thickened soup features tender strips of pork shoulder, paired with garlic puree, shredded bamboo shoots and vegetables. Common choices include meat-soup noodles, rice cakes (gua zai) and rice noodles or rice, at about NT$55 a bowl—a coin-purse snack that often draws queues and a Yilan classic not to be missed.

109 Eat

City God Temple Noodle Shop

Chenghuang Temple Qie-Zi Noodle Shop at No. 27, Chenghuang Street, Yilan City, is a hidden breakfast spot locals love. Sign-less and plain-looking, it serves old-school dry and soup noodles, rice cakes and rice vermicelli, paired with handmade fish balls and small plates like pork liver, lung and cheek meat at friendly prices. Opening hours are roughly 6 to 11 (some say 12); queues are common, so driving in and parking along Zhongshan Road or near the temple is recommended. The dining area is simple and there's no air-con in summer—an authentic choice for travellers wanting a traditional Yilan breakfast.

54 Eat