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The way the steam blurred our faces

The way the steam blurred our faces

Five silent witnesses to our collective chaos

The Sodium Bicarbonate Pool: Steaming, opaque, and smelling faintly of minerals. It witnessed us betting on who could endure the heat the longest, our voices echoing against the tiles as we splashed like children who had completely forgotten how to be adults.

The 23rd Floor Glass at EAST 23: Cool to the touch, reflecting a kaleidoscope of neon. It witnessed the sudden, heavy silence that fell when the Yilan city lights flickered on, and the way we all tried to pretend we weren't competing to see who could take the most dramatic photo of the Kaiseki platter.

The Executive Suite's Oversized Bed: Crisp white linens, smelling of fresh laundry and late-night secrets. It witnessed the 3 AM collapse—a heap of limbs and laughter—where we recounted every questionable decision we'd made since university, the fabric absorbing the weight of stories that only emerge when the rest of the world is asleep.

The Ming Chu Bai Hui Buffet Plate: Heavy porcelain, piled high with glistening seafood. It witnessed the strategic stacking of shrimp and sashimi that looked more like a structural engineering project than a meal, accompanied by the mutual teasing of who would actually be the one to finish it all.

The Crystal Salt Bath: Gritty, warm, and swirling with a milky luminescence. It witnessed the slow dissolution of our city-bred stress, the salt grains swirling in the water like tiny galaxies, while we debated whether the walk to the nearby arts center was a brief stroll or a full-scale expedition.

The quiet alchemy of mineral water

I sometimes think that friendship is not a solid thing, but something more like surface tension—a delicate film that holds us together even when the current of our individual lives tries to pull us in opposite directions. We arrived at Cuncyue Hot Spring Hotel as a chaotic stream, all noise and overlapping conversations, our energy swirling like a whirlpool in the lobby. "Do we even know how to relax?" I wondered, watching my friends scramble for the elevator. But there is a specific kind of alchemy in the Yilan spring air, a humidity that softens the edges of a person, making the transition from the street to the warm, mineral-rich water feel less like a change of location and more like a change of state. In the Executive Suite, the space was wide enough to hold our collective loudness, the distance to the bathroom a brief journey through a room that felt, for a moment, like a portable home we had all agreed to inhabit. We spent hours in the baths, the water acting as a solvent for the tensions we carry from the city, until we were nothing but ripples in a still pool, reflecting the soft, amber light of a March evening. I suppose the joy wasn't in the luxury itself, but in the way the luxury allowed us to be completely, unapologetically foolish together, the kindness of the staff acting as a quiet buffer against our madness, while the scent of spring rain lingered just outside the window.

A single, warm bead of water sliding down a cold windowpane.

  • Order the Kaiseki dinner at EAST 23 to watch the Yilan skyline shift colors.
  • Visit the 5th floor Club to unwind before exploring the Tung blossom trails.

Nearby Food & Attractions

OX Yakiniku Steak Yilan Yuanshan

OX Yaxus Seared Steak (Yilan Yuanshan branch) sits at No. 202, Sec. 1, Yuanshan Road in Yuanshan Township, right beside the Yuanshan Farmers' Association. The interior is industrial-style, with blues and jazz setting a laid-back tone and walls lined with rows of motorcycle helmets. The menu centres on a self-service bar and steaks: the bar alone is just NT$109 for salad, hot dishes, toasted bread and ice cream, while steaks start from NT$309 and come with the free bar. Oden, Japanese steamed egg, spicy duck blood with stinky tofu, a chocolate fountain and corn chowder round things out, with no service charge—great for family and group dinners.

58 Eat

North Gate Green Bean Slush

Beimen Mung Bean Slush (Beimen Lvdousha Milk King) is a long-standing Yilan drink shop with more than 40 years of history. Hand-made to order, the mung bean slush milk, papaya milk and taro slush are the most popular, and the rich, smooth taste routinely draws long queues. Beyond the signature drinks, the bright, refreshed storefront also offers seasonal limited editions—an unmissable taste of Yilan for any traveller.

87 Eat

North Gate Garlic Pork Thick Soup

Beimen Garlic Meat Soup is a Beimen District, Yilan institution with more than 60 years of history, famed for its rich garlic-fragrant broth. The thickened soup features tender strips of pork shoulder, paired with garlic puree, shredded bamboo shoots and vegetables. Common choices include meat-soup noodles, rice cakes (gua zai) and rice noodles or rice, at about NT$55 a bowl—a coin-purse snack that often draws queues and a Yilan classic not to be missed.

109 Eat

City God Temple Noodle Shop

Chenghuang Temple Qie-Zi Noodle Shop at No. 27, Chenghuang Street, Yilan City, is a hidden breakfast spot locals love. Sign-less and plain-looking, it serves old-school dry and soup noodles, rice cakes and rice vermicelli, paired with handmade fish balls and small plates like pork liver, lung and cheek meat at friendly prices. Opening hours are roughly 6 to 11 (some say 12); queues are common, so driving in and parking along Zhongshan Road or near the temple is recommended. The dining area is simple and there's no air-con in summer—an authentic choice for travellers wanting a traditional Yilan breakfast.

54 Eat