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The steam hid our laughter for a while

The steam hid our laughter for a while

The Silent Witnesses of Our Collective Chaos

The dual onsen tubs, slick with sodium bicarbonate minerals and smelling of warm, ancient earth, witnessed a heated, hour-long negotiation over who deserved the "Beauty Bath" first—a debate involving more legalistic logic than a Supreme Court hearing, ending in a chaotic splash that turned the bathroom floor into a shallow lake.

The floor-to-ceiling glass of the 23rd floor, blurred by the January mist that rolls in from the Pacific like a heavy velvet curtain, witnessed our attempt to look contemplative against the Luodong skyline; it was a performance of poise that lasted exactly three seconds before a joke about the altitude sent us collapsing into a heap of breathless laughter.

The bottle of complimentary red wine, its deep crimson hue bleeding into the sterile white of the executive suite, witnessed the rapid descent from "meaningful New Year's reflections" to an absurd, high-stakes argument about whether a penguin could realistically drive a car, all while we leaned against the cool, silent walls.

The oversized white robes, heavy with the scent of industrial luxury and smelling faintly of ozone, witnessed our clumsy, synchronized attempts to glide toward the Starry Sky Bar, looking less like sophisticated travelers and more like a group of bewildered, oversized clouds drifting aimlessly through the gilded hallway.

The precise arrangement of the Kaiseki dinner at EAST 23, where every slice of sashimi was a study in geometric perfection and smelled of the cold sea, witnessed the sudden, hungry silence that fell over us the moment the first plate arrived—a rare, sacred instance where our talking finally stopped and the food did the speaking.

If the Walls Could Recall the Noise

If these walls could speak, they would describe us as a beautiful glitch in the curated silence of Cuncyue Hot Spring Hotel. We were a chaotic tribe claiming a temporary kingdom of steam and silk, our laughter echoing against plush carpets. In the January fog, we found the liberation of being ridiculous.

Plum blossom scents lingered on the cold wind.

  • Soak in the sodium bicarbonate bath at 3am when the world is still.
  • Book EAST 23 early to watch the Luodong night lights flicker.

Nearby Food & Attractions

OX Yakiniku Steak Yilan Yuanshan

OX Yaxus Seared Steak (Yilan Yuanshan branch) sits at No. 202, Sec. 1, Yuanshan Road in Yuanshan Township, right beside the Yuanshan Farmers' Association. The interior is industrial-style, with blues and jazz setting a laid-back tone and walls lined with rows of motorcycle helmets. The menu centres on a self-service bar and steaks: the bar alone is just NT$109 for salad, hot dishes, toasted bread and ice cream, while steaks start from NT$309 and come with the free bar. Oden, Japanese steamed egg, spicy duck blood with stinky tofu, a chocolate fountain and corn chowder round things out, with no service charge—great for family and group dinners.

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North Gate Green Bean Slush

Beimen Mung Bean Slush (Beimen Lvdousha Milk King) is a long-standing Yilan drink shop with more than 40 years of history. Hand-made to order, the mung bean slush milk, papaya milk and taro slush are the most popular, and the rich, smooth taste routinely draws long queues. Beyond the signature drinks, the bright, refreshed storefront also offers seasonal limited editions—an unmissable taste of Yilan for any traveller.

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North Gate Garlic Pork Thick Soup

Beimen Garlic Meat Soup is a Beimen District, Yilan institution with more than 60 years of history, famed for its rich garlic-fragrant broth. The thickened soup features tender strips of pork shoulder, paired with garlic puree, shredded bamboo shoots and vegetables. Common choices include meat-soup noodles, rice cakes (gua zai) and rice noodles or rice, at about NT$55 a bowl—a coin-purse snack that often draws queues and a Yilan classic not to be missed.

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City God Temple Noodle Shop

Chenghuang Temple Qie-Zi Noodle Shop at No. 27, Chenghuang Street, Yilan City, is a hidden breakfast spot locals love. Sign-less and plain-looking, it serves old-school dry and soup noodles, rice cakes and rice vermicelli, paired with handmade fish balls and small plates like pork liver, lung and cheek meat at friendly prices. Opening hours are roughly 6 to 11 (some say 12); queues are common, so driving in and parking along Zhongshan Road or near the temple is recommended. The dining area is simple and there's no air-con in summer—an authentic choice for travellers wanting a traditional Yilan breakfast.

54 Eat