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The way the soft serve melted before we could argue

Four Quests in Collective Chaos

The Sanxing Green Onion Gauntlet: We bet on who could devour the most onion-infused dishes at the buffet; we won the taste test, but spent the next forty-eight hours smelling like a pungent local farm.

The Prune-Skin Endurance Contest: We attempted to outlast each other in the mineral heat of the communal onsen, but the sulfur-scented steam was so hypnotic that we all drifted into a collective, floating nap.

The 'Zen' Morning Expedition: We tried a dignified, silent stroll through the mist-shrouded park at dawn, but the silence lasted ten seconds before we devolved into a heated debate over whether the breakfast buffet served duck or goose.

The Cloud-Bed Sinkhole: We tried to actually unpack our suitcases in the sprawling European suite, but the mattress at Evergreen Resort Hotel Jiaosi was so impossibly plush that we just collapsed on top of our clothes and stayed there for three hours.

The Final Scoreboard

The buffet was a colorful disaster of plates piled high with roast duck and celebratory sweets, a team sport where the real victory was roasting each other's plating skills while the crisp September air drifted through the open corridors. "Is this even legal?" I whispered, staring at a mountain of food. The 6 AM walk was a total joke—a failed attempt at spirituality that ended in a debate about soft serve—yet it became the highlight because it was so authentically us. There is something about the way the autumn rain softens the Yilan soil, like a seed finally splitting open after a long wait, that makes you realize the point of traveling with friends isn't the destination, but the shared willingness to be completely ridiculous in a luxury setting. At Evergreen Resort Hotel Jiaosi, the communal bath was the only place where the noise stopped, where the thick steam erased the edges of our personalities and left only the warmth of the water and the distant, muffled sound of someone's snoring.

A single wet leaf clinging to the glass.

  • Try the soft serve at the buffet before it vanishes.
  • Take the 6 AM walk to the park just to fail at being Zen.

Nearby Food & Attractions

OX Yakiniku Steak Yilan Yuanshan

OX Yaxus Seared Steak (Yilan Yuanshan branch) sits at No. 202, Sec. 1, Yuanshan Road in Yuanshan Township, right beside the Yuanshan Farmers' Association. The interior is industrial-style, with blues and jazz setting a laid-back tone and walls lined with rows of motorcycle helmets. The menu centres on a self-service bar and steaks: the bar alone is just NT$109 for salad, hot dishes, toasted bread and ice cream, while steaks start from NT$309 and come with the free bar. Oden, Japanese steamed egg, spicy duck blood with stinky tofu, a chocolate fountain and corn chowder round things out, with no service charge—great for family and group dinners.

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North Gate Green Bean Slush

Beimen Mung Bean Slush (Beimen Lvdousha Milk King) is a long-standing Yilan drink shop with more than 40 years of history. Hand-made to order, the mung bean slush milk, papaya milk and taro slush are the most popular, and the rich, smooth taste routinely draws long queues. Beyond the signature drinks, the bright, refreshed storefront also offers seasonal limited editions—an unmissable taste of Yilan for any traveller.

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North Gate Garlic Pork Thick Soup

Beimen Garlic Meat Soup is a Beimen District, Yilan institution with more than 60 years of history, famed for its rich garlic-fragrant broth. The thickened soup features tender strips of pork shoulder, paired with garlic puree, shredded bamboo shoots and vegetables. Common choices include meat-soup noodles, rice cakes (gua zai) and rice noodles or rice, at about NT$55 a bowl—a coin-purse snack that often draws queues and a Yilan classic not to be missed.

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City God Temple Noodle Shop

Chenghuang Temple Qie-Zi Noodle Shop at No. 27, Chenghuang Street, Yilan City, is a hidden breakfast spot locals love. Sign-less and plain-looking, it serves old-school dry and soup noodles, rice cakes and rice vermicelli, paired with handmade fish balls and small plates like pork liver, lung and cheek meat at friendly prices. Opening hours are roughly 6 to 11 (some say 12); queues are common, so driving in and parking along Zhongshan Road or near the temple is recommended. The dining area is simple and there's no air-con in summer—an authentic choice for travellers wanting a traditional Yilan breakfast.

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