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The Sound Of Slippers On Thick Carpet

Four Quests in Artful Idleness

The Late-Riser's Gambit - We bet the breakfast buffet would be a chaotic war zone of clinking silverware and rushing crowds, but arriving at noon revealed a serene sanctuary of steamed eggs and fragrant garlic meat soup. The air smelled of toasted grains and morning dew, turning a simple meal into a slow, luxurious ritual of indulgence. Result: A triumphant victory for the lazy.

The Tatami Protocol - We attempted to maintain a poised, Zen-like posture in our Deluxe Western Room, hoping the minimalist aesthetic and the scent of fresh linens would inspire a sudden, profound inner peace. However, the sheer, cloud-like scale of the oversized bed, with its crisp, cool sheets that felt like a frozen lake, lured us into a sprawling, collective nap within minutes. Result: A total collapse of dignity.

The Thermal Endurance Test - We tried to hold a high-concept debate on the nature of time while soaking in the mineral-rich onsen, the water a shimmering, opaque turquoise that felt like liquid velvet against our skin. But as the searing heat penetrated our marrow and the steam clouded our vision, our philosophy devolved into rhythmic, synchronized panting and a shared, glazed-eyed stare at the ceiling. Result: Unexpectedly primal.

The Soundproof Symphony - We spent two hours in the karaoke rooms attempting to reclaim our youth through off-key anthems, the neon lights flickering in electric pinks and blues in time with our enthusiasm. We soon realized the thick, insulating walls of Evergreen Resort Hotel Jiaosi are the only thing shielding the other guests from our absolute lack of musical talent and our questionable taste in 90s pop. Result: A sonic disaster, safely contained.

The Emotional Ledger

I often feel that adult friendship is a series of negotiated distances, a careful arrangement of boundaries to prevent us from rubbing each other the wrong way. Yet here, amidst the grey, mineral-scented drizzle of a February afternoon in Yilan, those boundaries felt unnecessary. We arrived with a frantic energy—a noisy collision of personalities that felt, at first, like salt crystals: hard, jagged, and distinct. But as we sank into the depths of the onsen at Evergreen Resort Hotel Jiaosi, the water, carrying the weight of the earth's interior, began to break down those edges. I remember thinking, this is where we stop pretending. The warmth turned our sharp arguments about the itinerary into a slow, drifting conversation that had no particular destination, like autumn leaves on a stream. The onsen was the undisputed highlight, melting our stress into a soft, shared silence. While our attempt at "dignified posture" was a hilarious joke, the late-morning buffet—tasting of salt and slow time—was the most worthwhile indulgence. The vastness of the room, smelling faintly of cedar and fresh linens, swallowed the sound of our bickering, leaving behind a saturated stillness that lingered in the air long after we left.

The steam on the window blurred the mountains into a soft, white smudge.

  • Brave the February drizzle in Yilan without an umbrella.
  • Order the strawberry cake for a friend who isn't having a birthday.

Nearby Food & Attractions

OX Yakiniku Steak Yilan Yuanshan

OX Yaxus Seared Steak (Yilan Yuanshan branch) sits at No. 202, Sec. 1, Yuanshan Road in Yuanshan Township, right beside the Yuanshan Farmers' Association. The interior is industrial-style, with blues and jazz setting a laid-back tone and walls lined with rows of motorcycle helmets. The menu centres on a self-service bar and steaks: the bar alone is just NT$109 for salad, hot dishes, toasted bread and ice cream, while steaks start from NT$309 and come with the free bar. Oden, Japanese steamed egg, spicy duck blood with stinky tofu, a chocolate fountain and corn chowder round things out, with no service charge—great for family and group dinners.

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North Gate Green Bean Slush

Beimen Mung Bean Slush (Beimen Lvdousha Milk King) is a long-standing Yilan drink shop with more than 40 years of history. Hand-made to order, the mung bean slush milk, papaya milk and taro slush are the most popular, and the rich, smooth taste routinely draws long queues. Beyond the signature drinks, the bright, refreshed storefront also offers seasonal limited editions—an unmissable taste of Yilan for any traveller.

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North Gate Garlic Pork Thick Soup

Beimen Garlic Meat Soup is a Beimen District, Yilan institution with more than 60 years of history, famed for its rich garlic-fragrant broth. The thickened soup features tender strips of pork shoulder, paired with garlic puree, shredded bamboo shoots and vegetables. Common choices include meat-soup noodles, rice cakes (gua zai) and rice noodles or rice, at about NT$55 a bowl—a coin-purse snack that often draws queues and a Yilan classic not to be missed.

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City God Temple Noodle Shop

Chenghuang Temple Qie-Zi Noodle Shop at No. 27, Chenghuang Street, Yilan City, is a hidden breakfast spot locals love. Sign-less and plain-looking, it serves old-school dry and soup noodles, rice cakes and rice vermicelli, paired with handmade fish balls and small plates like pork liver, lung and cheek meat at friendly prices. Opening hours are roughly 6 to 11 (some say 12); queues are common, so driving in and parking along Zhongshan Road or near the temple is recommended. The dining area is simple and there's no air-con in summer—an authentic choice for travellers wanting a traditional Yilan breakfast.

54 Eat