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The Hum of a Dry Room at Midnight

Four Chaotic Quests in Yilan

The 125cc Scooter Odyssey. We rented those buzzing little bikes from the lobby, dreaming of secluded Tung blossoms in Yuanshan. The April wind whipped through our jackets, smelling of wet earth and wild grass, while the engine's erratic rattle echoed against the emerald hills. "I think we're lost," he whispered, just as we began chasing a stray dog through a neon-green rice paddy for twenty minutes. Result: A total navigational disaster, but we stumbled upon a hidden tea shop that tasted like liquid gold and smelled of toasted roasted grains.

The Dehumidifier Diplomacy. We spent an entire evening treating the room's dehumidifier like a sacred relic, arguing over the exact percentage of dryness needed to combat the clinging Yilan mist. "It's too crisp, I can feel my skin tightening!" I complained, while the machine hummed a low, steady lullaby that filled the silence between us. We watched the water tank fill, a physical manifestation of the dampness we were fighting. Result: We eventually surrendered to 'Auto' mode and drifted into a moisture-free haze that felt like a luxury we hadn't earned.

The Night Market Sprint. A high-stakes tactical mission from the lobby to the nearby street food stalls, where the air was a thick, savory soup of grilled squid and sizzling oil. We bet on who could find the weirdest snack for under a hundred dollars, our laughter blending with the chaotic roar of the crowd and the rhythmic clinking of metal spatulas. "Try this," he dared, handing me a translucent, wobbling mass. Result: We found a gelatinous cube that tasted like salted plums and old socks—unexpectedly, the absolute highlight of the night.

The Onsen Endurance Test. We braved the public baths, the opaque, mineral-rich water clinging to our skin like a warm, heavy blanket. We tried to maintain a stoic, zen-like silence, but the heat was an aggressive force, a pulsing wave that turned our faces a shade of pink usually reserved for shrimp. "I can't breathe the steam!" we gasped in unison, our voices echoing in the tiled chamber. Result: A frantic retreat to the lobby's cold drinks after seven minutes of intense, sweating desperation.

The Final Tally

The scooter ride was a joke and the onsen a lesson in humility. But the real win was the sanctuary of Grand Boss Hotel Yilan. Lying in a dry room while April rain tapped the glass was the ultimate, honest luxury of the trip.

The scent of damp cedar lingered on our skin.

  • Rent the scooters, toss the map, and get lost in the emerald hills.
  • Challenge yourselves to find the weirdest snack at the night market.

Nearby Food & Attractions

OX Yakiniku Steak Yilan Yuanshan

OX Yaxus Seared Steak (Yilan Yuanshan branch) sits at No. 202, Sec. 1, Yuanshan Road in Yuanshan Township, right beside the Yuanshan Farmers' Association. The interior is industrial-style, with blues and jazz setting a laid-back tone and walls lined with rows of motorcycle helmets. The menu centres on a self-service bar and steaks: the bar alone is just NT$109 for salad, hot dishes, toasted bread and ice cream, while steaks start from NT$309 and come with the free bar. Oden, Japanese steamed egg, spicy duck blood with stinky tofu, a chocolate fountain and corn chowder round things out, with no service charge—great for family and group dinners.

58 Eat

North Gate Green Bean Slush

Beimen Mung Bean Slush (Beimen Lvdousha Milk King) is a long-standing Yilan drink shop with more than 40 years of history. Hand-made to order, the mung bean slush milk, papaya milk and taro slush are the most popular, and the rich, smooth taste routinely draws long queues. Beyond the signature drinks, the bright, refreshed storefront also offers seasonal limited editions—an unmissable taste of Yilan for any traveller.

87 Eat

North Gate Garlic Pork Thick Soup

Beimen Garlic Meat Soup is a Beimen District, Yilan institution with more than 60 years of history, famed for its rich garlic-fragrant broth. The thickened soup features tender strips of pork shoulder, paired with garlic puree, shredded bamboo shoots and vegetables. Common choices include meat-soup noodles, rice cakes (gua zai) and rice noodles or rice, at about NT$55 a bowl—a coin-purse snack that often draws queues and a Yilan classic not to be missed.

109 Eat

City God Temple Noodle Shop

Chenghuang Temple Qie-Zi Noodle Shop at No. 27, Chenghuang Street, Yilan City, is a hidden breakfast spot locals love. Sign-less and plain-looking, it serves old-school dry and soup noodles, rice cakes and rice vermicelli, paired with handmade fish balls and small plates like pork liver, lung and cheek meat at friendly prices. Opening hours are roughly 6 to 11 (some say 12); queues are common, so driving in and parking along Zhongshan Road or near the temple is recommended. The dining area is simple and there's no air-con in summer—an authentic choice for travellers wanting a traditional Yilan breakfast.

54 Eat