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The scent of lilies drifting through the open balcony

The welcome juice was served in a glass that felt heavy and damp with condensation, leaving a ring of water on the mahogany table as the citrus scent drifted upward—a sharp, bright note that signaled the beginning of our stillness. I sometimes think that a family trip is not a sequence of planned events but a single drop of ink falling onto a wet page, where the boundaries of individual desires slowly bleed into a shared, saturated fiber of experience. We arrived at Li Shiuan International Hotel in the middle of May, when the air in Hualien carries a peculiar tension between the salt of the Pacific and the honeyed sweetness of wild ginger lilies. "Are we finally here?" the children whispered, their voices echoing in the lobby. I had imagined a structured holiday, but the children had other plans. I found that the most honest moments happened when we stopped trying to navigate and simply let the day diffuse around us, the hotel acting as a wooden anchor in the shifting winds of the coast.

Five things we experienced together

The welcome juice, a cold, citrus-heavy liquid that tasted of sudden arrivals and the relief of finally setting down the suitcases; the youngest noticed it first when he tried to drink it in one giant, messy gulp.

The heavy iron door, which closed with a definitive, metallic thud that swallowed the corridor's hum and revealed a sanctuary of warm wooden tones and soft, amber light; the oldest noticed it first, insisting it made the room feel like a fortress.

The rooftop garden, where the 10th-floor breeze carries the scent of May lilies and the horizon feels permeable, blurring the line between the city and the sea; my wife noticed it first as she closed her eyes to let the wind rearrange her thoughts.

The breakfast buffet, specifically the humid steam rising from the vegetarian stir-fry and the chaotic clink of plates as the children debated the merits of pancakes versus fruit; I noticed it first while searching for a coffee strong enough to wake the soul.

The borrowed bicycles, with their slight rattle of chains and the way the brine-heavy air clings to your skin as you pedal toward the coast; the children noticed them first, racing each other while the world blurred into a smear of emerald and sapphire.

A single white lily petal resting on the balcony rail.

  • Rent the hotel bicycles for a slow ride toward the coast at 7am.
  • Visit the rooftop garden during the golden hour for the best light.

Nearby Food & Attractions

Laicheng Pork Ribs Noodles

Lai-Cheng Pork Rib Noodle Shop on Zhong-Zheng Road in Hualien City is a heritage snack shop founded in 1948, famous for its signature crispy rib pastry and collagen-rich pig trotters. The ribs are fried then steamed so they come out crunchy on the outside, set in a clear sweet-savoury broth; the trotters are tender, bouncy, and satisfyingly chewy. Together they form the must-order classic that food-loving locals and tourists keep coming back for. The shop now has dine-in seating and child seats, and the 2025 relocation made parking much easier, perfect for family meals and group gatherings.

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Gongzheng Steamed Buns

Gong-Zheng Bao-Zi is a long-established snack shop in Hualien City famous for its thick, slightly sweet-skinned small soup dumplings. Each dumpling costs around NT$5 with a hand-seasoned pork filling, and diners who like it punchy can reach for the house chilli sauce. Beyond the dumplings the menu runs to steamed dumplings, soup buns, pork-thickened noodle soup, hot-and-sour noodles, meatball soup, iced soy milk, and red tea. Relocated to the corner of Ren-Ai Street and Cheng-Gong Street at the end of 2023, right across from the popular Miao-Kou Red Tea, the small storefront still pulls long queues of locals and tourists and is a must-eat Hualien institution.

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Gongzheng Street Bun Shop

Gong-Zheng Street Bao-Zi is a 40-plus-year Hualien snack landmark, anchored by its thick-skinned small soup dumplings and steamed dumplings. The dough is hand-rolled into soft, chewy, faintly sweet wrappers that hold a simply seasoned, juicy pork filling. The shop also serves steamed dumplings, soup dumplings, pork-thickened noodle soup, hot-and-sour noodles, meatball soup, iced soy milk, and red tea. Even after the late-2023 move, the popularity has held steady - queues are shorter but the dumplings remain a Hualien must-eat. Prices are friendly, with each soup dumpling around NT$5-7, perfect for grab-and-go eating.

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Zhoujia Steamed Dumplings

Zhou-Jia Steamed Dumplings on Gong-Zheng Street in Hualien has been operating for nearly fifty years and is famed for its hand-folded steamed dumplings and soup dumplings made fresh to order. The menu offers three steamed-dumpling flavours, hand-made soup dumplings, hot-and-sour soup, pork-thickened soup, and braised pork rice, and the shop runs 24 hours a day - so breakfast, lunch, dinner, or a midnight snack are all on the table. Ten steamed dumplings run about NT$30, ten soup dumplings about NT$40, prices are friendly and flavours bright, and the regular queues mark it as a must-visit for locals and tourists alike.

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