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The way the salt air felt on a Tuesday

The way the salt air felt on a Tuesday

To us five years from now. I hope we still argue about the map and remember the Pacific's November hue.

Four fragments we will still be arguing about in five years

The 6 AM Pajama Summit. We stood on the sea-view balcony of Hualien Hai Yue Hotel, shivering in that specific 22-degree November chill. The sun pulled itself out of the Pacific in a seamless blend of slate blue and pale gold, while we debated—with an intensity usually reserved for politics—whether someone had stolen the last of the coffee. "I saw you take it," I remember whispering, the salt air stinging my nostrils as we watched the tide pull back.

The Red Oil Consensus. The steam from the red oil wontons hit our faces in a cramped alleyway, the scent of toasted garlic and old newspapers swirling around us. We fought over whether the spice was too aggressive or just right, our voices competing with the clatter of porcelain. We claimed we wanted "authenticity," but really, we were just three people huddled in the autumn wind, finding a portable home in the shared heat of a plastic bowl.

The Rooftop Reverie. The rooftop bar at Hualien Hai Yue Hotel felt like a sanctuary of glass and wind. I remember the cold condensation on my glass and the way the night lights of Hualien Port twinkled like fallen stars below us. We were in the middle of a loud disagreement about the itinerary, but the vast, dark horizon seemed to absorb our noise, reminding us that the ocean doesn't care about our schedules.

The Waterfront Drift. Our walk toward the Pacific Waterfront Park, where the November light turns a thin, translucent silver, was less of a journey and more of a collective stumble. The wind whipped through our coats, smelling of brine and wet concrete. We spent more time criticizing each other's walking pace than looking at the scenery, yet that friction is how we actually experience a place—not through a postcard, but through the messy reality of being together.

When this memory is opened five years later

I suspect we will forget the room number or the layout of the breakfast buffet, but the lightness in the chest—the one that happens when the city falls away and the Pacific opens up—will remain. Perhaps a scent of salt on a cold wind will trigger it, and we'll realize the trip wasn't about the destination, but about being entirely ourselves while being completely lost.

The sound of the tide retreating over grey pebbles.

  • Visit the rooftop bar at Hualien Hai Yue Hotel for the starlit port view.
  • Savor the red oil wontons in a hidden alleyway and ignore the queue.

Nearby Food & Attractions

Laicheng Pork Ribs Noodles

Lai-Cheng Pork Rib Noodle Shop on Zhong-Zheng Road in Hualien City is a heritage snack shop founded in 1948, famous for its signature crispy rib pastry and collagen-rich pig trotters. The ribs are fried then steamed so they come out crunchy on the outside, set in a clear sweet-savoury broth; the trotters are tender, bouncy, and satisfyingly chewy. Together they form the must-order classic that food-loving locals and tourists keep coming back for. The shop now has dine-in seating and child seats, and the 2025 relocation made parking much easier, perfect for family meals and group gatherings.

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Gongzheng Steamed Buns

Gong-Zheng Bao-Zi is a long-established snack shop in Hualien City famous for its thick, slightly sweet-skinned small soup dumplings. Each dumpling costs around NT$5 with a hand-seasoned pork filling, and diners who like it punchy can reach for the house chilli sauce. Beyond the dumplings the menu runs to steamed dumplings, soup buns, pork-thickened noodle soup, hot-and-sour noodles, meatball soup, iced soy milk, and red tea. Relocated to the corner of Ren-Ai Street and Cheng-Gong Street at the end of 2023, right across from the popular Miao-Kou Red Tea, the small storefront still pulls long queues of locals and tourists and is a must-eat Hualien institution.

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Gongzheng Street Bun Shop

Gong-Zheng Street Bao-Zi is a 40-plus-year Hualien snack landmark, anchored by its thick-skinned small soup dumplings and steamed dumplings. The dough is hand-rolled into soft, chewy, faintly sweet wrappers that hold a simply seasoned, juicy pork filling. The shop also serves steamed dumplings, soup dumplings, pork-thickened noodle soup, hot-and-sour noodles, meatball soup, iced soy milk, and red tea. Even after the late-2023 move, the popularity has held steady - queues are shorter but the dumplings remain a Hualien must-eat. Prices are friendly, with each soup dumpling around NT$5-7, perfect for grab-and-go eating.

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Zhoujia Steamed Dumplings

Zhou-Jia Steamed Dumplings on Gong-Zheng Street in Hualien has been operating for nearly fifty years and is famed for its hand-folded steamed dumplings and soup dumplings made fresh to order. The menu offers three steamed-dumpling flavours, hand-made soup dumplings, hot-and-sour soup, pork-thickened soup, and braised pork rice, and the shop runs 24 hours a day - so breakfast, lunch, dinner, or a midnight snack are all on the table. Ten steamed dumplings run about NT$30, ten soup dumplings about NT$40, prices are friendly and flavours bright, and the regular queues mark it as a must-visit for locals and tourists alike.

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