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The sound of ice cubes hitting the glass at 3am

The sound of ice cubes hitting the glass at 3am

The Crimson-Faced Chronicles

"Mark actually thought we could hike to the coast in thirty-degree heat without a single drop of water," Sarah cackles, leaning back with a smirk that suggests she’s been savoring this moment since noon.

"I distinctly remember saying we'd find a shop!" Mark protests, though his face is a shade of crimson that rivals a summer sunset, his skin practically radiating heat.

"Right, a boutique water shop in the middle of a coastal trail," I add, the irony tasting like the salt hanging in the humid air.

"Stop roasting me!" he groans, throwing a pillow. "At least I didn't bring a suitcase full of hardcover novels for a three-day trip."

We all freeze, then erupt into laughter that feels louder and thicker than the July humidity, the sound bouncing off the walls in a chaotic, joyful rhythm.

Salt-Stained Sanctuary

We are sprawled across the minimalist room at Hualien Hai Yue Hotel, a space where the air is a heavy, honeyed stillness that precedes a typhoon. The scent of brine drifts through the open balcony, mingling with the faint, clean aroma of the hotel's natural bath essences that linger in the steam of the bathroom. I watch the golden light slide across the polished surfaces, thinking how our friendship is a bit like the wild creepers I saw on the walk to Songyuan Villa—clinging tenaciously to the stone, finding gaps in the mortar to push through, growing not in a straight line but in a series of messy, beautiful accidents. The room feels like a cool anchor against the restless Pacific; the floor is a chilled relief under bare feet, while the distant, rhythmic hum of the Hualien harbor vibrates through the walls like a slow heartbeat. We spent an hour arguing over which side of the bed offered the best vantage point, a trivial war fought in a space that demands nothing but our presence. Above us, the rooftop bar likely echoes with similar chaos, a sanctuary of glass and wind where the cocktails are cold and the horizon is infinite. It is a room that doesn't ask us to be our best selves, only that we exist together in this suspended moment of salt and heat.

Blue Hour Confessions

"Do you think we'll actually remember this in ten years?" Sarah asks, her voice barely a whisper now that the others have fallen asleep, the blue light of the harbor filtering through the curtains like a watercolor wash.

"The heat? Or the way Mark looked when he realized he was completely lost?" I reply, shifting my weight on the wooden chair, the grain of the wood pressing into my skin.

"No," she sighs, her gaze fixed on the distant lights of the port. "The feeling of the wind on the rooftop bar, looking at the harbor and feeling like the world is just water and sky, and we are the only ones left in it."

"I suppose we will," I answer softly, "though the details will probably blur into one long, golden afternoon of shared mistakes and loud laughter."

We sit in the dim light, the sounds of the city five minutes away feeling like a distant memory, two people holding a silence that feels more honest than any of the jokes we told during the day.

Chilled tofu pudding sweating on a wooden table.

  • Walk from the hotel to the Pacific Waterfront Park at 6am.
  • Try the red oil wontons at Xiang Bian Shi for a spicy kick.

Nearby Food & Attractions

Laicheng Pork Ribs Noodles

Lai-Cheng Pork Rib Noodle Shop on Zhong-Zheng Road in Hualien City is a heritage snack shop founded in 1948, famous for its signature crispy rib pastry and collagen-rich pig trotters. The ribs are fried then steamed so they come out crunchy on the outside, set in a clear sweet-savoury broth; the trotters are tender, bouncy, and satisfyingly chewy. Together they form the must-order classic that food-loving locals and tourists keep coming back for. The shop now has dine-in seating and child seats, and the 2025 relocation made parking much easier, perfect for family meals and group gatherings.

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Gongzheng Steamed Buns

Gong-Zheng Bao-Zi is a long-established snack shop in Hualien City famous for its thick, slightly sweet-skinned small soup dumplings. Each dumpling costs around NT$5 with a hand-seasoned pork filling, and diners who like it punchy can reach for the house chilli sauce. Beyond the dumplings the menu runs to steamed dumplings, soup buns, pork-thickened noodle soup, hot-and-sour noodles, meatball soup, iced soy milk, and red tea. Relocated to the corner of Ren-Ai Street and Cheng-Gong Street at the end of 2023, right across from the popular Miao-Kou Red Tea, the small storefront still pulls long queues of locals and tourists and is a must-eat Hualien institution.

69 Eat

Gongzheng Street Bun Shop

Gong-Zheng Street Bao-Zi is a 40-plus-year Hualien snack landmark, anchored by its thick-skinned small soup dumplings and steamed dumplings. The dough is hand-rolled into soft, chewy, faintly sweet wrappers that hold a simply seasoned, juicy pork filling. The shop also serves steamed dumplings, soup dumplings, pork-thickened noodle soup, hot-and-sour noodles, meatball soup, iced soy milk, and red tea. Even after the late-2023 move, the popularity has held steady - queues are shorter but the dumplings remain a Hualien must-eat. Prices are friendly, with each soup dumpling around NT$5-7, perfect for grab-and-go eating.

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Zhoujia Steamed Dumplings

Zhou-Jia Steamed Dumplings on Gong-Zheng Street in Hualien has been operating for nearly fifty years and is famed for its hand-folded steamed dumplings and soup dumplings made fresh to order. The menu offers three steamed-dumpling flavours, hand-made soup dumplings, hot-and-sour soup, pork-thickened soup, and braised pork rice, and the shop runs 24 hours a day - so breakfast, lunch, dinner, or a midnight snack are all on the table. Ten steamed dumplings run about NT$30, ten soup dumplings about NT$40, prices are friendly and flavours bright, and the regular queues mark it as a must-visit for locals and tourists alike.

57 Eat