← Back to Sofun Hotel

The way the water shimmered when we stopped talking

To us five years from now. I hope you still remember the damp, cedar-scented chill of Yilan and our petty arguments over skewers.

Four Fragments of a Yilan Autumn

The Cardboard Echo. The way the hotel's history as a paper empire manifests in the clean, linear geometry of the halls, smelling faintly of crisp parchment. It makes the luxury feel strangely fragile, as if the entire building might fold like an origami crane if we breathed too loudly or spoke too honestly.

The November Dip. Floating in the rooftop pool at Sofun Hotel while the 22-degree air nipped at our shoulders, watching the Lanyang Plain dissolve into a grey-blue haze. I remember the chlorine mixing with the salt air and the silent bet on who would be the first to admit they were freezing.

The Adult's Envy. Standing in the kids' area, watching a toddler conquer the climbing wall with a raw, uninhibited confidence I haven't felt since the nineties. We just stood there, clutching our warm, bitter coffees, feeling suddenly very old and very awkward in our curated adulthood.

The Night Market Chaos. That frantic moment at Luodong Night Market when we were swept away by a surge of tourists, the air thick with the scent of charcoal-grilled sausages. We found each other again by a shared laugh, our voices barely audible over the roar of the crowd.

When the Capsule Opens

I suspect the most honest part of the trip was the refraction of light through the rooftop water—a prismatic shimmer that blurred the line between the city's hum and the stillness we were pretending to find. In the quiet of our room at Sofun Hotel, where the carpet was thick enough to swallow our footsteps and the bed felt like a gentle surrender, we stopped pretending. We spent hours roasting each other for our lack of a map, yet there was a shared understanding that this aimless drift was the entire point. The cardboard theme is a metaphor for us: simple, fragile layers that, when pressed together by time and shared failures, create a structural strength that surprises you. I will forget the room number, but the sensation of the November wind hitting our wet skin as we climbed out of the pool—that sharp, freezing shock that makes you feel entirely alive—will remain as a clear needle of memory, piercing through the fog of the next five years.

A single blue tile, glistening under the November moon.

  • Wander toward Luodong Night Market slowly, feeling the air shift.
  • Linger at the rooftop pool until the Lanyang Plain fades to grey.

Nearby Food & Attractions

OX Yakiniku Steak Yilan Yuanshan

OX Yaxus Seared Steak (Yilan Yuanshan branch) sits at No. 202, Sec. 1, Yuanshan Road in Yuanshan Township, right beside the Yuanshan Farmers' Association. The interior is industrial-style, with blues and jazz setting a laid-back tone and walls lined with rows of motorcycle helmets. The menu centres on a self-service bar and steaks: the bar alone is just NT$109 for salad, hot dishes, toasted bread and ice cream, while steaks start from NT$309 and come with the free bar. Oden, Japanese steamed egg, spicy duck blood with stinky tofu, a chocolate fountain and corn chowder round things out, with no service charge—great for family and group dinners.

58 Eat

North Gate Green Bean Slush

Beimen Mung Bean Slush (Beimen Lvdousha Milk King) is a long-standing Yilan drink shop with more than 40 years of history. Hand-made to order, the mung bean slush milk, papaya milk and taro slush are the most popular, and the rich, smooth taste routinely draws long queues. Beyond the signature drinks, the bright, refreshed storefront also offers seasonal limited editions—an unmissable taste of Yilan for any traveller.

87 Eat

North Gate Garlic Pork Thick Soup

Beimen Garlic Meat Soup is a Beimen District, Yilan institution with more than 60 years of history, famed for its rich garlic-fragrant broth. The thickened soup features tender strips of pork shoulder, paired with garlic puree, shredded bamboo shoots and vegetables. Common choices include meat-soup noodles, rice cakes (gua zai) and rice noodles or rice, at about NT$55 a bowl—a coin-purse snack that often draws queues and a Yilan classic not to be missed.

109 Eat

City God Temple Noodle Shop

Chenghuang Temple Qie-Zi Noodle Shop at No. 27, Chenghuang Street, Yilan City, is a hidden breakfast spot locals love. Sign-less and plain-looking, it serves old-school dry and soup noodles, rice cakes and rice vermicelli, paired with handmade fish balls and small plates like pork liver, lung and cheek meat at friendly prices. Opening hours are roughly 6 to 11 (some say 12); queues are common, so driving in and parking along Zhongshan Road or near the temple is recommended. The dining area is simple and there's no air-con in summer—an authentic choice for travellers wanting a traditional Yilan breakfast.

54 Eat