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The blue water held the sky until we stopped talking

Five Unexpected Rhythms of the Spring

The Orange Filter. We arrived in the thick, humid soup of an August afternoon, the kind of heat that makes your clothes cling to you like a second, unwanted skin. The moment we passed through the vibrant orange lattice exterior of Wellspring Hotel Jiaoxi, the roar of the street softened, as if the building were a golden sieve filtering out the city's chaos.

The Great Pillow Bet. We spent twenty minutes debating the pillow menu, the air around us smelling of faint jasmine and playful tension. "You're actually going to sleep on dried leaves?" my friend laughed as I chose the eccentric tea-leaf option, a tactile gamble that felt far more consequential than it actually was.

The Shiver and the Steam. In the semi-outdoor hot spring, we alternated between the sudden, sharp chill of the August breeze and the heavy, sulfurous warmth of the mineral water. We shuddered in unison, the sound of our laughter echoing against the damp stone walls before we sank back into the enveloping, liquid heat.

The Turtle Island Mirage. We climbed to the rooftop infinity pool just as the light turned a bruised purple, the water shimmering like a fallen piece of the twilight sky. Watching the distant, hazy silhouette of Turtle Island, I realized the heavy silence between us had become a conversation we had long forgotten how to have.

The Mung Bean Ritual. After a morning of wandering, we shared a cup of North Gate Green Bean Milk, the frosty cup sweating in our palms. Its texture was thick and sweet against the salt of the sea air, a cold, simple pleasure that felt like the only correct response to the oppressive Yilan humidity.

The Sum of Small Stillnesses

These fragments—the laughter over sandals and the rooftop silence—settled into a rhythm. Wellspring Hotel Jiaoxi became a warm container, turning our noise into a sulfur-scented peace. It allowed us to simply exist together, stripped of the need to perform.

Steam rising from the tub, blurring the world.

  • Try the tea-leaf pillow for a uniquely aromatic sleep.
  • Visit the rooftop pool at dusk to see Turtle Island fade.

Nearby Food & Attractions

OX Yakiniku Steak Yilan Yuanshan

OX Yaxus Seared Steak (Yilan Yuanshan branch) sits at No. 202, Sec. 1, Yuanshan Road in Yuanshan Township, right beside the Yuanshan Farmers' Association. The interior is industrial-style, with blues and jazz setting a laid-back tone and walls lined with rows of motorcycle helmets. The menu centres on a self-service bar and steaks: the bar alone is just NT$109 for salad, hot dishes, toasted bread and ice cream, while steaks start from NT$309 and come with the free bar. Oden, Japanese steamed egg, spicy duck blood with stinky tofu, a chocolate fountain and corn chowder round things out, with no service charge—great for family and group dinners.

58 Eat

North Gate Green Bean Slush

Beimen Mung Bean Slush (Beimen Lvdousha Milk King) is a long-standing Yilan drink shop with more than 40 years of history. Hand-made to order, the mung bean slush milk, papaya milk and taro slush are the most popular, and the rich, smooth taste routinely draws long queues. Beyond the signature drinks, the bright, refreshed storefront also offers seasonal limited editions—an unmissable taste of Yilan for any traveller.

87 Eat

North Gate Garlic Pork Thick Soup

Beimen Garlic Meat Soup is a Beimen District, Yilan institution with more than 60 years of history, famed for its rich garlic-fragrant broth. The thickened soup features tender strips of pork shoulder, paired with garlic puree, shredded bamboo shoots and vegetables. Common choices include meat-soup noodles, rice cakes (gua zai) and rice noodles or rice, at about NT$55 a bowl—a coin-purse snack that often draws queues and a Yilan classic not to be missed.

109 Eat

City God Temple Noodle Shop

Chenghuang Temple Qie-Zi Noodle Shop at No. 27, Chenghuang Street, Yilan City, is a hidden breakfast spot locals love. Sign-less and plain-looking, it serves old-school dry and soup noodles, rice cakes and rice vermicelli, paired with handmade fish balls and small plates like pork liver, lung and cheek meat at friendly prices. Opening hours are roughly 6 to 11 (some say 12); queues are common, so driving in and parking along Zhongshan Road or near the temple is recommended. The dining area is simple and there's no air-con in summer—an authentic choice for travellers wanting a traditional Yilan breakfast.

54 Eat