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The steam blurred the edges of our laughter

The Silent Witnesses of Our Collective Chaos

The PS4 Controller: Slick with the salt of frantic palms and the rhythmic click-clack of desperation; it witnessed a high-stakes bet over the dinner bill that devolved into a series of increasingly creative, whispered insults.

The Sanxing Scallion Sauce: Sharp, pungent, and smelling of the damp, mineral-rich Yilan earth; it witnessed the moment we realized that sharing the appetizer platter was a polite fiction we all agreed to maintain while secretly hoarding the best bits.

The In-room Onsen Tub: A basin of smooth, heat-retaining stone that smelled faintly of sulfur and serenity; it witnessed the slow evaporation of our performative energy, leaving us as three heavy, humid shapes drifting in the opaque steam.

The Grass Turf of the Play Ground: Springy, unnervingly green, and cool against the skin; it witnessed a disastrous archery session where the arrows seemed to possess a sentient desire to avoid the target entirely, much to our loud, echoing dismay.

The Heavy White Robes: Coarse, oversized cotton that swallowed our frames like fluffy cocoons; they witnessed us patrolling the corridors of Jiaoxi Hanmu Hotel like a small, bewildered army of the exhausted, our slippers scuffing softly against the polished floors.

The Chronicles of Our Unraveling

I sometimes think that friendship is not a static state but a slow, seasonal transformation, much like the bald cypress trees at Beihou Temple that spend October bleeding into a deep, bruised crimson. We arrived at Jiaoxi Hanmu Hotel with a plan to be sophisticated—to embrace the curated stillness of the high-floor views and the hushed luxury of the lounge. But as the dim, amber lighting of our room cast long, moody shadows, our poise dissolved. "Are we actually adults?" I whispered, watching my friends tangle themselves in a loud argument over a racing game in the Play Ground, our dignity shedding like autumn leaves. There is a particular kind of freedom in being completely ridiculous with people who know exactly how flawed you are; it is a portable home that doesn't require a map, only the shared knowledge of who is most likely to lose their cool. We spent hours in the outdoor pool, the sulfurous heat of the springs pulling the tension from our shoulders like a physical weight being lifted. For a moment, the boundary between our skin and the humid October air vanished. I suppose the luxury of the place was merely the trellis—the structured, elegant support that allowed our collective chaos to bloom, reminding us that the most honest way to belong is to be slightly out of place together.

A single crimson leaf drifting on a steaming pool.

  • Savor the aromatic Sanxing scallion delicacies at the hotel buffet.
  • Wander through Beihou Temple to witness the crimson cypress trees.

Nearby Food & Attractions

OX Yakiniku Steak Yilan Yuanshan

OX Yaxus Seared Steak (Yilan Yuanshan branch) sits at No. 202, Sec. 1, Yuanshan Road in Yuanshan Township, right beside the Yuanshan Farmers' Association. The interior is industrial-style, with blues and jazz setting a laid-back tone and walls lined with rows of motorcycle helmets. The menu centres on a self-service bar and steaks: the bar alone is just NT$109 for salad, hot dishes, toasted bread and ice cream, while steaks start from NT$309 and come with the free bar. Oden, Japanese steamed egg, spicy duck blood with stinky tofu, a chocolate fountain and corn chowder round things out, with no service charge—great for family and group dinners.

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North Gate Green Bean Slush

Beimen Mung Bean Slush (Beimen Lvdousha Milk King) is a long-standing Yilan drink shop with more than 40 years of history. Hand-made to order, the mung bean slush milk, papaya milk and taro slush are the most popular, and the rich, smooth taste routinely draws long queues. Beyond the signature drinks, the bright, refreshed storefront also offers seasonal limited editions—an unmissable taste of Yilan for any traveller.

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North Gate Garlic Pork Thick Soup

Beimen Garlic Meat Soup is a Beimen District, Yilan institution with more than 60 years of history, famed for its rich garlic-fragrant broth. The thickened soup features tender strips of pork shoulder, paired with garlic puree, shredded bamboo shoots and vegetables. Common choices include meat-soup noodles, rice cakes (gua zai) and rice noodles or rice, at about NT$55 a bowl—a coin-purse snack that often draws queues and a Yilan classic not to be missed.

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City God Temple Noodle Shop

Chenghuang Temple Qie-Zi Noodle Shop at No. 27, Chenghuang Street, Yilan City, is a hidden breakfast spot locals love. Sign-less and plain-looking, it serves old-school dry and soup noodles, rice cakes and rice vermicelli, paired with handmade fish balls and small plates like pork liver, lung and cheek meat at friendly prices. Opening hours are roughly 6 to 11 (some say 12); queues are common, so driving in and parking along Zhongshan Road or near the temple is recommended. The dining area is simple and there's no air-con in summer—an authentic choice for travellers wanting a traditional Yilan breakfast.

54 Eat