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The sound of a plastic bag opening at 2 AM

The Midnight Conspiracy of the Hungry

We had spent the afternoon pretending to be the kind of adults who appreciate the mineral-rich silence of a deep sea water pool, letting the magnesium and potassium of Naruwan Galaxy Hotel sink into our skin while the May rain began to blur the edges of the Taitung skyline. I sometimes think that the rain in May possesses a specific, heavy sweetness—a mixture of salt from the Pacific and the scent of wild ginger lilies that clings to the humid air, making everything feel slightly slower, as if the world is hesitating. We had promised each other a journey of refined wellness, but by midnight, the refined part had dissolved, replaced by a collective, urgent craving for things that come in plastic wrappers. We huddled in the lobby, whispering like conspirators, before venturing out into the cool 26-degree night to gather a hoard of convenience store treasures. Our laughter echoed in the quiet corridors of the hotel as we carried our spoils back to the room, feeling a strange, liberating thrill in our shared descent into gluttony.

Confessions Over Fried Chicken

"I cannot believe we spent three hours discussing the therapeutic benefits of deep sea water only to end up eating fried chicken on a carpet that probably costs more than my first car," Sarah said, leaning back against the edge of the king-sized bed, her voice echoing in the spacious room.

"It is called balance," I replied, carefully arranging a pile of local bean curd snacks and tea eggs on a makeshift platter of napkins. "We are optimizing our wellness by contrasting the purity of the pool with the chaos of processed sodium. It is a strategy."

"Right, a strategy," she scoffed, reaching for a piece of tofu, the savory scent of soy sauce filling the air. "You just wanted an excuse to eat things that are definitely not on the hotel's breakfast menu, even though that seafood porridge this morning was actually decent. Guess what, we are still the same mess we were in college, just with better linens and a higher credit limit."

"True," I admitted, glancing at the way the room's soft lighting played off the galaxy-themed accents, creating a sense of floating in a void where the only fixed points were the smell of oil and the sound of her judging my life choices. "But there is something about this place, this specific distance from the city, that makes the mess feel intentional. We are not failing at being adults; we are succeeding at being friends in a very expensive room."

The Stillness After the Feast

Once the bags were empty and the conversation had drifted into those long, comfortable silences that only occur between people who have seen each other at their worst, a peculiar stillness settled over us. I thought about the water in the pool earlier—water that had drifted in the dark, cold currents of the ocean for a thousand years before arriving here, carrying the memory of a world without sunlight. Perhaps friendship is a similar kind of current, a slow, invisible drift that carries us through different cities and different versions of ourselves, only to surface in a room at Naruwan Galaxy Hotel where the only requirement is to exist without explanation. The room felt less like a hotel and more like a portable home, a temporary sanctuary where the walls were wide enough to hold both our ambitions and our absurdities. As the rain continued to tap rhythmically against the glass, the weight of the day—the long drives, the laughter, the saltwater—settled into a warm, humming contentment.

A half-empty tea bottle reflecting the pale moonlight.

  • Try local red tea eggs for a salty, aromatic midnight kick.
  • Grab Chishang bean curd skins to share on the plush carpet.

Nearby Food & Attractions

Qilixiang Pan-fried Buns

Qi-Li-Xiang Pan-Fried Buns is a thirty-plus-year snack institution tucked in Lane 385 of Zheng-Qi Road in Taitung City. The signature is a fist-sized pan-fried bun with a crisp golden base and a soft, generously filled interior, made even better with the house sweet-chilli sauce. Braised snacks round out the menu, prices are gentle — a single bun is just NT$25 — and queues are common. The plain shop on the corner of Zheng-Qi and Nan-Jing roads does both eat-in and takeaway.

66 Eat

Nanbei Dumpling House

Nan-Bei Dumpling House at 117 He-Ping Street in Taitung City has been around for more than forty years. Its oversized steamed dumplings — thin-skinned, bouncy and packed with juicy filling — are the headline act, joined by boiled dumplings, fried noodles, stir-fries and homestyle plates. Orders are taken on handwritten slips, sauces are self-serve, and spice fans should ask for the house peeled-chilli condiment. The two-storey room is often packed; lunch runs 11 a.m. to 2 p.m., dinner 5 to 8:30 p.m., with an average spend of about NT$400 per head.

52 Eat

Kazier Mahi-Mahi Specialty

Ka-Zi-Er Dorado Specialties at 115 Da-Tong Road in Cheng-Gong Township, Taitung, is a creative snack shop built around the local dolphinfish (gui-tou-dao). The kitchen folds the firm, white fish into classic Taiwanese dishes — dorado braised-pork rice, oyster omelette, fish-paste soup, fried fish cutlets and dumplings — for an affordable, distinctly local menu. Décor mixes old Taiwan with indigenous motifs, and the shop's packed rooms, mentions on the Taiwan Lu-Rou-Fan Festival list and frequent food-show features make it a Cheng-Gong must-try.

83 Eat

Banyan Tree Rice Noodles

Under-the-Banyan Rice Noodles on Section 1, Zhong-Hua Road in Taitung City has been slinging bowls for more than fifty years. The signature rice-thread noodles come with house chilli oil, golden kimchi, crispy fried dorado and other small plates that locals and tourists love. The roomy interior turns over queues quickly at peak hours; there is no air-conditioning, but the clean broth and old-school flavour more than make up for it — a Taitung essential.

70 Eat