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The bike chain snapped just as the stars came out

The bet was simple: whoever got us lost first paid for dinner. We ended up staring at a confused cow in a salty coastal field, the September wind whipping our hair into knots. We spent twenty minutes arguing about North, our map fluttering like a dying bird in the humid air.



Fried tofu from Chishang, crisp and dangerously hot. We ate them standing up, grease staining our fingers and the scent of soy oil clinging to our clothes. Later, the creamy taro porridge from the hotel's late-night spread felt like a warm hug for our exhausted stomachs.


"Who needs a view when you have a 65-inch screen?" Mark asked, sprawled in our Deluxe Quad at Mu She Wen Lv Tie Hua Xiu Tai Guan. I watched the blue light flicker against the walls, thinking the distance between the mattress and the screen was all that mattered after ten miles of cycling.


The TOTO bidet became our shared obsession. We spent an hour debating water pressure like it was high-tech aerospace equipment, the sterile white tiles echoing our absurd arguments. It became our internal benchmark for luxury, which is honestly kind of pathetic.


3 AM in the lounge. The coffee bar was a quiet island of amber light amidst the dark. We didn't talk; we just listened to the low hum of the refrigerator and the rhythmic pulse of Taitung settling into a September sleep, the air smelling of roasted beans.


The room had a warm, cedar-like scent, like an old library left open to the sea breeze. Soft, golden lighting blurred the furniture's edges, creating a velvet cocoon that made the vast wildness of the East Coast feel suddenly manageable.


A sudden gust nearly carried my hat toward the Pacific. We chased it through the streets near Tiehua Village, sprinting like idiots while locals watched with amusement, our laughter echoing against the colorful lanterns.


Home is just the rhythm of people who know exactly how to annoy you. Our friendship felt like wild vines, cracking through the concrete of adult pretenses, growing messy and strong as we collapsed into the high-floor beds of Mu She Wen Lv Tie Hua Xiu Tai Guan.

A single wet hat resting on a wooden table.

  • Grab some fried tofu in Chishang and eat it while it's still burning.
  • Walk to Tiehua Village at dusk when the lanterns start to glow.

Nearby Food & Attractions

Qilixiang Pan-fried Buns

Qi-Li-Xiang Pan-Fried Buns is a thirty-plus-year snack institution tucked in Lane 385 of Zheng-Qi Road in Taitung City. The signature is a fist-sized pan-fried bun with a crisp golden base and a soft, generously filled interior, made even better with the house sweet-chilli sauce. Braised snacks round out the menu, prices are gentle — a single bun is just NT$25 — and queues are common. The plain shop on the corner of Zheng-Qi and Nan-Jing roads does both eat-in and takeaway.

66 Eat

Nanbei Dumpling House

Nan-Bei Dumpling House at 117 He-Ping Street in Taitung City has been around for more than forty years. Its oversized steamed dumplings — thin-skinned, bouncy and packed with juicy filling — are the headline act, joined by boiled dumplings, fried noodles, stir-fries and homestyle plates. Orders are taken on handwritten slips, sauces are self-serve, and spice fans should ask for the house peeled-chilli condiment. The two-storey room is often packed; lunch runs 11 a.m. to 2 p.m., dinner 5 to 8:30 p.m., with an average spend of about NT$400 per head.

52 Eat

Kazier Mahi-Mahi Specialty

Ka-Zi-Er Dorado Specialties at 115 Da-Tong Road in Cheng-Gong Township, Taitung, is a creative snack shop built around the local dolphinfish (gui-tou-dao). The kitchen folds the firm, white fish into classic Taiwanese dishes — dorado braised-pork rice, oyster omelette, fish-paste soup, fried fish cutlets and dumplings — for an affordable, distinctly local menu. Décor mixes old Taiwan with indigenous motifs, and the shop's packed rooms, mentions on the Taiwan Lu-Rou-Fan Festival list and frequent food-show features make it a Cheng-Gong must-try.

83 Eat

Banyan Tree Rice Noodles

Under-the-Banyan Rice Noodles on Section 1, Zhong-Hua Road in Taitung City has been slinging bowls for more than fifty years. The signature rice-thread noodles come with house chilli oil, golden kimchi, crispy fried dorado and other small plates that locals and tourists love. The roomy interior turns over queues quickly at peak hours; there is no air-conditioning, but the clean broth and old-school flavour more than make up for it — a Taitung essential.

70 Eat