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The distance between the bed and the mirror

The distance between the bed and the mirror

"Do you think the water is too hot?"

"Do you think the water is too hot?" you asked, your shoulder brushing mine. I didn't answer, watching the May light hit the stone of Fuli Chihpen Resort in pale gold. "I suppose we'll find out," I whispered. We stood there, trying to remember how to be still.

A subterranean pressure of belonging

I often think of intimacy not as a sudden spark, but as a slow, subterranean pressure—like a root splitting a concrete slab from below, patient and insistent, invisible until the surface finally gives way. We had spent the morning wandering through Taitung, the air heavy with the scent of lilies and the brine of the Pacific, before retreating to the measured quiet of Fuli Chihpen Resort. The lobby, with its soaring ceilings and earth-toned stone, seemed to absorb the frantic noise of our city lives, leaving us in a space that felt unexpectedly wide and forgiving.

Our room, a Refined Double, became a sanctuary of soft edges. I remember the specific, comforting weight of the duvet and the way the morning light filtered through the curtains at 6 a.m., casting long, hesitant shadows across the floor. There was a certain peace in the distance between the bed and the bathroom, a small, private stretch of carpet where one could gather their thoughts before facing the mirror. We spent an hour in the Fuli Cafe, the bitter aroma of Starbucks coffee mingling with the damp, metallic scent of the May rain outside, watching other travelers hurry toward the East Wave Carnival while we remained stubbornly stationary.

I remember the taste of the chilled cane ice we had found in Shoufeng, the sugary, crystalline grit still lingering as a memory on my tongue during our breakfast at the all-day dining restaurant. We sat by the floor-to-ceiling windows, watching the landscape breathe, the meal becoming a slow conversation between us and the mountains. Later, in the outdoor hot pool, the heat worked its way into our muscles, dissolving the rigid architectural lines we usually maintain in our separate lives. We didn't speak of the years or the grievances; we simply watched a single leaf drift across the shimmering surface of the water, a small, green transformation in a world of rising steam. I think we were just learning how to occupy the same silence without the urgent need to resolve it, letting the warmth of the spring water do the talking for us.

A single, wet footprint on the stone floor, slowly fading.

  • Let's wake up early and walk toward the forest before the crowds arrive.
  • I think we could spend an entire afternoon just watching the steam rise from the pool.

Nearby Food & Attractions

Qilixiang Pan-fried Buns

Qi-Li-Xiang Pan-Fried Buns is a thirty-plus-year snack institution tucked in Lane 385 of Zheng-Qi Road in Taitung City. The signature is a fist-sized pan-fried bun with a crisp golden base and a soft, generously filled interior, made even better with the house sweet-chilli sauce. Braised snacks round out the menu, prices are gentle — a single bun is just NT$25 — and queues are common. The plain shop on the corner of Zheng-Qi and Nan-Jing roads does both eat-in and takeaway.

66 Eat

Nanbei Dumpling House

Nan-Bei Dumpling House at 117 He-Ping Street in Taitung City has been around for more than forty years. Its oversized steamed dumplings — thin-skinned, bouncy and packed with juicy filling — are the headline act, joined by boiled dumplings, fried noodles, stir-fries and homestyle plates. Orders are taken on handwritten slips, sauces are self-serve, and spice fans should ask for the house peeled-chilli condiment. The two-storey room is often packed; lunch runs 11 a.m. to 2 p.m., dinner 5 to 8:30 p.m., with an average spend of about NT$400 per head.

52 Eat

Kazier Mahi-Mahi Specialty

Ka-Zi-Er Dorado Specialties at 115 Da-Tong Road in Cheng-Gong Township, Taitung, is a creative snack shop built around the local dolphinfish (gui-tou-dao). The kitchen folds the firm, white fish into classic Taiwanese dishes — dorado braised-pork rice, oyster omelette, fish-paste soup, fried fish cutlets and dumplings — for an affordable, distinctly local menu. Décor mixes old Taiwan with indigenous motifs, and the shop's packed rooms, mentions on the Taiwan Lu-Rou-Fan Festival list and frequent food-show features make it a Cheng-Gong must-try.

83 Eat

Banyan Tree Rice Noodles

Under-the-Banyan Rice Noodles on Section 1, Zhong-Hua Road in Taitung City has been slinging bowls for more than fifty years. The signature rice-thread noodles come with house chilli oil, golden kimchi, crispy fried dorado and other small plates that locals and tourists love. The roomy interior turns over queues quickly at peak hours; there is no air-conditioning, but the clean broth and old-school flavour more than make up for it — a Taitung essential.

70 Eat