← Back to Palais de Chine Hotel

The sound of a music box while the city drowned in rain

We bet on who would melt first the moment we stepped out of the airport, the June air hitting us like a warm, wet towel left in a gym locker. By the time we reached the lobby of Palais de Chine Hotel, two of us had already surrendered to the humidity, looking as though we had just swum across the Tamsui River. We stood there, blinking at the massive bookshelves that seemed to hold the weight of a thousand forgotten histories, the air suddenly cooling into a scent of polished mahogany and expensive lilies.


There was a bowl of mangoes on the table, the fruit so violently yellow it looked artificial, tasting of pure, concentrated sunshine and a reckless summer sweetness. We ate them in a heavy, sticky silence, the juice dripping onto a white linen shirt. We all agreed it was a fitting tribute to our collective lack of grace as new graduates, the cold pulp a sharp, refreshing contrast to the oppressive Taipei heat.
I watched him try to navigate the spiral staircase in the Jun Yi Suite, his movements awkward and hesitant, like a Victorian orphan who had accidentally wandered into a duke's library. "You look like you're auditioning for a play about a confused aristocrat," I whispered. He responded by nearly tripping over his own suitcase, the clatter of wheels echoing through the hall in a moment of physical comedy that felt more honest than any graduation speech we had heard that week.
We spent an hour arguing over the Latin words 'PLVS VLTRA' etched into the walls, our fingertips tracing the cold, smooth marble. One of us insisted it was a secret code for where the mini-bar was hidden. It became our private joke for the rest of the trip, a shorthand for whenever someone was trying too hard to sound intellectual while actually being completely lost in the layout of the room.
Lying on the bed, I looked up at the hand-painted ceiling of 'A Midsummer Night's Dream,' the colors soft and blurring at the edges as the air conditioning hummed a low, steady note. The sheets felt crisp and cool against my skin, a sanctuary of high-thread-count peace. I think the only way to truly understand the chaos of the city outside is to find a room where the ceiling pretends the world is made of poetry and moonlight.
The scent of the room was a mixture of old leather, polished wood, and the faint, metallic tang of the crystal chandeliers. In the bathroom, a round bathtub waited, where a flickering electronic candle cast dancing, amber shadows against the tiles. The distance from the bed to the bath felt like a cross-country trek in the middle of the night, a vast expanse of carpet that swallowed the sound of our footsteps and our whispered theories about the future.
We found a mechanical music box in a quiet corner of Palais de Chine Hotel, its tinkling melody cutting through the heavy silence of the hallway like a small, sharp needle. It was a fragile, clockwork sound that belonged to another century. For a few seconds, the roar of Taipei's traffic and the crushing pressure of our new adult lives felt like they were happening to someone else, somewhere very far away.
As we packed our bags, the rain began to fall again, turning the asphalt outside into a dark mirror that reflected the neon lights of the city. We were leaving the palace, but we carried the rhythm of those slow, indulgent afternoons with us—a portable kind of belonging that didn't require a key or a reservation, just the memory of shared laughter in a gilded room.

The scent of damp cedar lingered on our clothes.

  • You have to find the music boxes hidden in the halls
  • Try the mango desserts while the June rain is falling

Nearby Food & Attractions

Gongguan Night Market

Gongguan Night Market sits in Lane 90, Section 4, Roosevelt Road, in Taipei's Da'an District, right beside MRT Gongguan Station and hemmed in by National Taiwan University and NTUST. The result is a vibrant district where students and tourists mingle. The market is famous for its dazzling variety of snacks: traditional Taiwanese fried chicken, oyster omelets and braised snacks sit alongside Japanese, Korean, Thai and Vietnamese fare, all priced for student budgets and served in generous portions. Stalls are densely packed along the lanes, and the air carries the buzz of youth, buskers and seasonal festivities that make this corner of southern Taipei a favorite after-dark hangout.

91 Eat

Shilin Night Market

Shilin Night Market sprawls across Taipei's Shilin District, anchored by Jihe Road, Dadong Road and Danan Road, and holds the title of the city's largest tourist night market. It is celebrated for an extraordinary spread of Taiwanese snacks: crispy fried chicken, fragrant oyster omelets, springy noodle soups, inventive steak-stuffed sausages and much more. Beyond food, rows of fashion stalls, accessories and games keep the energy youthful and electric. Access is easy via MRT Jiantan or Shilin stations, with bus connections and parking for drivers. Open daily, it remains a must-visit after-dark destination for locals and travelers hungry for food and fun.

93 Eat

Ningxia Night Market

Ningxia Night Market occupies a 300-meter stretch of Ningxia Road in Taipei's Datong District, a compact street packed with dozens of stalls, many of them Michelin Bib Gourmand picks. Fried chicken, oyster omelets, braised snacks and inventive bites line both sides of the lane, drawing loyal locals and curious travelers alike. The market has been patronized by figures such as NVIDIA CEO Jensen Huang, which only adds to its popularity and the queues that come with it. While each stall sets its own schedule, the action generally runs from early evening to late night. The atmosphere is boisterous and nostalgic, ideal for travelers wanting to sample a full sweep of traditional Taiwanese snacks in one sitting.

70 Eat

Monga Night Market

Monga Night Market sits at the junction of Guangzhou Street, Wuzhou Street and Xichang Street in Taipei's Wanhua District. Three originally separate markets were later merged under the Monga name, and together with the neighboring Huaxi Street Night Market they form Wanhua's twin night markets. The lanes still carry the atmosphere of century-old streets, packed with stalls whose signature dishes lean toward seafood and traditional snacks. Must-tries include Liang Xi Hao's squid thick soup, Fuzhou Shi Zu's pepper buns and Xiao Wang's cooked melon soup, all loved by locals and travelers alike. Beyond food, historic sites such as Longshan Temple sit nearby, so visitors can taste snacks while soaking up Wanhua's cultural depth and lively nightlife.

61 Eat