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The Ice Melted Before the Suitcase Closed

The Ice Melted Before the Suitcase Closed

I sat on the bed, fighting a zipper that refused to meet, the metallic teeth grinding in a stubborn stalemate. A single cube of ice in my glass dissolved into a tepid pool, the condensation slicking my palm. I wondered if packing was just a ritual of pretending I knew exactly what I was taking with me.


The red oil of the dumplings at Hualien Xiang Bian Shi was a spicy punch that woke up my senses. We ate in a blur of fragrant steam, the heat mirroring the afternoon sun, before retreating to the cool sanctuary of Hualien Holiday Hotel, where the scent of fresh linens replaced the street's humidity.
"You said it was a short walk," the roast began as we drifted toward Dongdamen Night Market. Our internal compasses were fried, our shirts clinging to our backs like damp towels in the 28-degree haze. We spent more time mocking our supposed shortcut than actually walking it, laughing until our lungs burned.
The 5th floor laundry room became our makeshift headquarters, smelling of industrial detergent and warm cotton. The rhythmic, metallic thrum of a coin-operated dryer at 9 PM made us feel like college students again, arguing over whose socks had vanished into the machine's void.
I think the real trip happens at 3 AM. The earth-toned walls of our room seemed to absorb the residue of our shouting, leaving a humming silence that felt like a held breath. In that stillness, the noise of the city finally stopped echoing, and the distance between us felt smaller.
The walk to the bathroom at midnight is a specific distance—a few steps on a floor holding the day's lingering warmth. Under lights so soft they don't wake the mind, I thought of the B1 breakfast waiting for us, a quiet promise of coffee and conversation in the morning.
At Liyu Lake, the light installations were like visual reverb, echoing across the dark water in shimmering patterns. We tried to be poetic about the symphony of lights until someone stepped squarely into a muddy puddle with a wet, squelching sound that shattered the mood instantly.
We arrived as a loud, discordant chord and left as a lingering vibration. Home isn't the city we returned to, but the shared rhythm of these few days—a portable frequency we carry in the way we now laugh at the mere mention of a map.

A single suitcase left open on the sidewalk.

  • Grab the red oil dumplings at Hualien Xiang Bian Shi; they're a total flavor bomb.
  • Hit the Liyu Lake lights late at night to avoid the crowds.

Nearby Food & Attractions

Laicheng Pork Ribs Noodles

Lai-Cheng Pork Rib Noodle Shop on Zhong-Zheng Road in Hualien City is a heritage snack shop founded in 1948, famous for its signature crispy rib pastry and collagen-rich pig trotters. The ribs are fried then steamed so they come out crunchy on the outside, set in a clear sweet-savoury broth; the trotters are tender, bouncy, and satisfyingly chewy. Together they form the must-order classic that food-loving locals and tourists keep coming back for. The shop now has dine-in seating and child seats, and the 2025 relocation made parking much easier, perfect for family meals and group gatherings.

107 Eat

Gongzheng Steamed Buns

Gong-Zheng Bao-Zi is a long-established snack shop in Hualien City famous for its thick, slightly sweet-skinned small soup dumplings. Each dumpling costs around NT$5 with a hand-seasoned pork filling, and diners who like it punchy can reach for the house chilli sauce. Beyond the dumplings the menu runs to steamed dumplings, soup buns, pork-thickened noodle soup, hot-and-sour noodles, meatball soup, iced soy milk, and red tea. Relocated to the corner of Ren-Ai Street and Cheng-Gong Street at the end of 2023, right across from the popular Miao-Kou Red Tea, the small storefront still pulls long queues of locals and tourists and is a must-eat Hualien institution.

69 Eat

Gongzheng Street Bun Shop

Gong-Zheng Street Bao-Zi is a 40-plus-year Hualien snack landmark, anchored by its thick-skinned small soup dumplings and steamed dumplings. The dough is hand-rolled into soft, chewy, faintly sweet wrappers that hold a simply seasoned, juicy pork filling. The shop also serves steamed dumplings, soup dumplings, pork-thickened noodle soup, hot-and-sour noodles, meatball soup, iced soy milk, and red tea. Even after the late-2023 move, the popularity has held steady - queues are shorter but the dumplings remain a Hualien must-eat. Prices are friendly, with each soup dumpling around NT$5-7, perfect for grab-and-go eating.

86 Eat

Zhoujia Steamed Dumplings

Zhou-Jia Steamed Dumplings on Gong-Zheng Street in Hualien has been operating for nearly fifty years and is famed for its hand-folded steamed dumplings and soup dumplings made fresh to order. The menu offers three steamed-dumpling flavours, hand-made soup dumplings, hot-and-sour soup, pork-thickened soup, and braised pork rice, and the shop runs 24 hours a day - so breakfast, lunch, dinner, or a midnight snack are all on the table. Ten steamed dumplings run about NT$30, ten soup dumplings about NT$40, prices are friendly and flavours bright, and the regular queues mark it as a must-visit for locals and tourists alike.

57 Eat